Just sit right back and youll hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip...

"...and here is the steeple..."

What an amazing 5 days spent on Steeple Jason! Steeple is just one island of 5 that make up the “Jason” Islands. The others are:

1. South Jason (located most south out of the five)
2. Elephant Jason (yes, it does look like an elephants head if you use some imagination)
3. Grand Jason (not sure on why this is named, it is quite large I guess)
4. Flat Jason (aptly named)

Wandering Wanderer?

The day we left (16 March) couldn’t have been better. The sun was out, but most importantly, the wind was low making for calm seas.  We all spent the majority of the 5-hour trip out on deck of the Condor. Right away we were greeted by a pod of Peale’s dolphins, which was exciting because I had yet to see that species. They followed the Condor for a few minutes and then re-disappeared into the kelp to forage. As we reached the Jasons we large flocks of Greater Shearwaters (Puffinus gravis), Sooty Shearwaters (Puffinus griseus), Falkland Diving Petrels (Pelecanoides urinatrix berard), and South American Terns (Sterna hirundinacea). Mike, the captain of the Condor, turned towards the flocks and we saw what all the excitement was about. In the crystal blue waters we could see millions of small fish near the surface and a little farther beneath the surface were larger fish (no idea what they were though). It reminded me of scenes from the movie Life of Pi. Another pod of Peale’s dolphins joined the boat again and this time I was able to record a short video of them jumping in and out of the water next to the bow of the boat. It wasn’t long until I was able to see and add my second species of albatross to my life list – the Southern Royal Albatross (Diomedea melanophris). Then out of nowhere, a huge white albatross flew near the bow of the boat. Of course, none of the 6 people with cameras (me included) were expecting this, so we are left with blurry photos of what could possibly have been a Wandering Albatross (Diomedea exulans). After all of these birds we were greeted by a new species of mammal in the form of hundreds of Fur Seals. They playfully swam and jumped around the boat as well as, looked on from their rocky islands that jutted out above the sea.

WCS house

Mobile Banding Station

We arrived to Steeple Jason and anchored slightly offshore. We loaded the zodiac with all our luggage and gear, and I finally understood why Micky thought I should have brought a smaller bag. Reason? There isn’t exactly a beach. Instead, there is a shoreline of very large rocks positioned “conveniently” on slants. We formed a bucket brigade line and slowly but surely all the gear, luggage, and food (2 dozen eggs included) made it safely to the ground above us. Steeple and Grand Jason Islands were both gifted to Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS). A few years ago they built a very nice house (3 bedrooms, 2 bath, sleeps 7 comfortably) on Steeple Jason. The garage behind the house, along with the back of the rover, became Micky and I’s second home for three days, as they became our new banding stations. 

Distraction is step one of albatross wrangling. 
I think looking like a clown in my waterproofs was my first try at distraction. 
When that didn't work, distraction with my other hand sometimes worked.

On the first day we were on the island, Micky and I helped Andy (also from Falklands Conservation) and his volunteer, Joost, help band Black-browed Albatross nestlings. Don’t begin to picture small young birds though. These were already almost as big as their parents! These birds are also literally born on a pedestal, where they will spend the first 4 months of their lives being doted on by their parents. Seeing them is one thing, but banding them is another type of experience. I have obviously banded raptors, but I also have banded songbirds and a species of shorebird called Black Skimmers. I have even assisted in the banding of Brown Pelican nestlings. So I have had my fair share of being bitten, footed, pooped on, and even the pelican nestlings tried throwing up on you when you go to restrain them as a last ditch defense. 

However, none of those species prepared me for these albatross nestlings. First, they will begin to clap their beaks together as a sign of defense toward you. When that doesn't deter you, they will try to bite you as you pass by. If you are still within their personal bubble projectile vomit happens. Vomit that is orange in color and possesses an extremely potent aroma of warm seafood mixed with gastric acid. Sometimes you will even be gifted with whole Loligo squid or copious amounts of fairly large lobster krill. Although the waterproofs that were provided to me were about 5 sizes too big, I was very grateful to have them on. I took Micky’s advice and swapped into the 4 sizes too big of Wellies after lunch, but I don’t think the smell will be coming off my hiking boots anytime soon. My ever-faithful banding gloves were unfortunately forced into an early retirement and did not make it on the boat ride home. After banding 25 nestlings I did develop the “Bobowski technique for calming albatross.” Thinking about how parents will  devotedly preen their young and one another, I started to rub that same area (right behind the mandible/jaw) while holding the nestling and it was like magic! They would calm right down and would even stay almost asleep in my arms when Micky was done putting the band on. Once I stopped though, they quickly realized I was not their parent and they would start attempting to bite me again.

Playing tug-of-war.

After a half-day of banding albatross, Micky and I devoted the rest of our time to putting on all the bands we brought with us (much to the irritation of my neck). We even discovered that we didn’t even need meat to trap some of the Johnny Rooks because they had a weird fascination with string. We banded near the house and at either side of the main island in the elements, which included rain, hail, and strong winds, all on the last day. But we did it! We banded and bled a total of 82 new Johnny Rooks. On 44/82 rooks we also took 11 different morphometric measurements. Once we learn what the sexes are of all the birds we banded, I hope to statistically analyze the measurements we have taken and determine an average measurement that one could take to determine the sex of the bird without the need of taking blood. 

The only thing we didn't accomplish was finding the transmitter that fell off of M1 White in December 2013. The last location we have of it is in the middle of tussac. It literally felt like trying to find a needle in a field of haystacks. Haystacks that are usually 5+ feet tall! Micky stayed back on the island with another BBC film crew though, so hopefully he will have better luck in the next few days. We did spot M1 White on our last day, so it is still nice to know he is still alive and has molted into a beautiful adult.

I spy with my little eye a $4000 transmitter...

On the day before we left, Micky and I ventured to the world’s largest Black-browed Albatross colony and it was simply incredible. So many birds in one place, I don’t think I was even able to capture it with a photograph. 

On the last day, we packed and cleaned up and boarded the Condor yesterday in slightly less-pleasant weather conditions. I spent the majority of the journey attempting to fall asleep until we reached Carcass Island. This morning I was able to do a crop walk (a survey to see what Johnny Rooks are around) and they seemed to have decreased in number since we were last there a couple of weeks ago with Marc and Keith.

Where do they go!?

It was then a short 10-minute slightly bumpy flight back to Saunders Island where I am currently. Seems strange to be here alone again though, almost makes me miss Micky and I sarcastically bantering with one another. ;-) It only dawned on me today, when I looked at the date on my watch, that at this time next week I would be in the air and/or in an airport. Not to mention I will be turning 26! Ironically, this is the first birthday I could have at home in a number of years and I am still not home. Oh well, I can’t wait to celebrate my dad’s birthday too when I get home! In the meantime, more crop walks here at the settlement of Saunders and hopefully enough Rooks are around to try out some puzzles on them. As girly as it sounds, I can’t wait to wear normal clothes and shoes again. Michigan, you better have spring weather for my return!