The
boat ride to Steeple Jason was less than pleasant. I took Dramamine before
getting on and just tried to sleep for 5 hours. I was doing fine and tried my
best to ignore the other retching sounds and potent smells on board. Then the
captain turned on the heat. Now, this isn’t the largest of vessels, so it heats
up pretty well. I found out the heat comes from beneath the bed I was on, as
well. For a girl who gets dehydrated and faints easily, this did not bode well
for me. When we arrived and anchored offshore, I sat up and not long after felt
like I was dripping in sweat and was severely dizzy. Mix that with incessant
rocking of the boat and I was about to faint. It was not good at all. Once I was on deck though, the fresh cool air
relieved me (the dolphins playing about were probably a good distraction as
well). However, after waiting for nearly an hour for the anchoring and first
transport of goods and passengers by zodiac, I was no longer feeling well.
Right when it was my turn to get on board the zodiac, my peripheral vision
started closing in, I began sweating, I thought I was going to throw up at any
moment, and still, I had to get on the zodiac. Luckily, I didn't miss a step
and I made it into the small boat beneath me and I felt better shortly after
that. Not so luckily, there is a thing called “land sickness.” Oh yes!! Turns
out, I can suffer from such a thing. It took until the next morning for me to
feel “right” again. Fortunately, the landscape of Steeple Jason makes up for
all of that.
Day
one, I introduced the two volunteers to Johnny Rook banding while Micky helped
Rob from Carcass Island, and who also manages Steeple Jason, bring fuel ashore
(took them all morning and unfortunately, all they succeeded in doing was
getting a trailer and 4 barrels of kerosene bogged shortly after bringing it
ashore on the other side of the island). One volunteer, Nathan (the Kiwi) has a
wildlife background so he caught on quickly. The other volunteer, Miguel (the
Chilean) who is a Spanish teacher and translator in Stanley, did well too.
Overall, we managed to band 30 Rooks that day.
Days
two and three were solely dedicated to Falklands Conservation’s Black-browed
Albatross project. Even though I study birds, it does not mean that I have to
like all birds. That being said, Black-browed Albatross are not at the top of
my list. Picture 500 ground-nesting birds in an area of about 50 yards by 20
yards. Now picture each bird actively defending their nest by lunging and
biting anything that passes by them with their 5-inch beak that is hooked at
the end. I am not sure what their bite force is, but I think it is a top
contender in the bird world. Imagine having to go through and either band an
unbanded bird, check the bands of banded birds, and also place a nest tag in each
nest. Micky and Nathan did all the banding but I still have bruises from just
being within the colony recording all the bands and nest numbers. I would just
be standing still, writing, when all of sudden it feels like pliers are being
squeezed on my upper thigh and then twisting. Or, the few times when I would
help Micky when he was banding, by holding the head still so he wouldn't get
bit, I would get bit. Up and down my arm, on my hand, you name it. Each time,
on the arms and hands especially, it would feel like nerves were being hit with
each bite and my whole arm and/or hand would tingle as a response, in addition
to the pain neurons firing. I would take three of the meanest, most annoyed
Rooks any day versus one Black-browed Albatross.
Fun Fact: Nathan (and I have learned that some Falklanders as well) call Black-browed Albatross "Mollymauks".
Another Fun Fact (I may have told you before): Those 500 or so nests are are only 1/1000th of the estimated number of Black-broweds there are on Steeple Jason. Yep, half of 1 million. Incredible to think about, isn't it?
Day
5, we went back to the albatross site to mark down band numbers of mates
changing over at the nests. It went
semi-quickly. Then we had to go back up the mountain and sit and count Southern
Giant Petrels nesting below. There were 11 sections and each section had to be
counted 3 times. I got done first, so I went walking down by the shore by the
Sea Lions and then by the Gentoo colony. I found an amazing little spot to take
photos of the Gentoos jumping ashore. It was too early in the day though so
there weren’t many groups, unfortunately.
Halloween
was less than eventful. For one, we woke up to snow falling from the sky. Yes,
SNOW! We actually were very spoiled the first few days here. The sun was
shining and it wasn’t bitterly cold if you were moving. The snow didn’t last
long, not even long enough to stick to the ground, but the cold temps seem to
want to stay. Add the strong wind and I have been chilled right to the bone.
Due to the weather though we had a late start. After lunch Micky took Miguel to
count albatross and petrels on the other side of the mountain. Nathan and I
stayed back to band some Rooks, but the weather made it difficult. We couldn't
stand too far back from our nooses because the wind would close them and plus,
if we did catch a bird we didn't want to have a Johnny Rook kite in our hands.
Lots of birds turned up though, which is good and bad.
Good points:
1.
Lots
of birds (duh…)
2.
I
am sometimes able to sit near the feeding frenzy and reach out and grab the
Rook I want by the legs with my hands.
Bad points:
1.
Lots
of unbanded birds.
2.
It's
hard to pick out which ones you want.
3.
Greater
chance of having an “alpha bird” that will dominate the feeding frenzy.
Nathan
and I were able to catch 9 birds before the group got too out of hand and
before we were too cold. Those nine bring up the Steeple Jason count up to 68
Rooks captured this trip in 3 days. Not too bad.
The highlight from 1 November was witnessing Z9 Black kill a Rock
Cormorant. It was awesome! He then removed the head and flew it over and gave
it to his mate, Z0 Black. She came back with him near the kill site and he
repeatedly came and got bits of the cormorant to go and share with Z0 Black.
You could definitely feel the love in the air that night.
The last days on the island were spent banding more Rooks with
Nathan, while Micky and Miguel counted penguins. In the end we banded 88 new
Rooks and managed to recapture 22 already banded birds.
On 7 November, we traveled back to Carcass Island. This boat ride
was much smoother than what we had on the way there, but still a little rough.
I managed to take a nice 4-hour nap and miss most of it. On Saturday I traveled
to Saunders Island. I am so glad that they had room to take me. I don't think
my trip would have felt complete without visiting the Pole-Evans. On Sunday I
went with David to the Neck and in the process was able to add a lifer to my
list. The Macaroni Penguin! There was a pair last year, but I had never seen
them since I always arrived later in the season. Luckily, I was able to see
them before the cruise ship that had 103 people come ashore. I won’t lie; I was
a little overwhelmed when they were walking towards me. For the last three
weeks, the largest quantity of people that I was around was four.
Yesterday, Suzan took me along with her to gather some cows, which meant I got to get on a horse! It has been probably two years since I had last ridden, so I was very excited, even when the horse turned out to be a bit naughty. At one point she decided to have a lie down and a roll with me still on top. Luckily, I managed to get my feet out of the stirrups in time. Other than that, it was a nice and quiet ending to my time in outer camp. Today, I traveled back to Stanley and am very grateful to Liz of Falklands Conservation who has let me stay with her until I fly out on Saturday. I hope that tomorrow I will still be able to go to Volunteer Point, but those plans may have changed so we shall see.
Yesterday, Suzan took me along with her to gather some cows, which meant I got to get on a horse! It has been probably two years since I had last ridden, so I was very excited, even when the horse turned out to be a bit naughty. At one point she decided to have a lie down and a roll with me still on top. Luckily, I managed to get my feet out of the stirrups in time. Other than that, it was a nice and quiet ending to my time in outer camp. Today, I traveled back to Stanley and am very grateful to Liz of Falklands Conservation who has let me stay with her until I fly out on Saturday. I hope that tomorrow I will still be able to go to Volunteer Point, but those plans may have changed so we shall see.
As always, photos will have to wait until I am back in the States.